Ripe for the ... harvest!
Being in the right place at the right time ... so much depends on that. Entire destinies have developed differently than planned because you were in the right place at the right time. For us winemakers, such a decisive moment comes every year: when we decide when the harvest season begins.
But when is the ideal time to start harvesting grapes?
Very simple: when the grape is ripe.
And when is it ripe?
That's where it gets more difficult.
Photo: Coloring of the Portugieser grapes as of August 15, 2023
You sneak around the vines and watch the grapes like a hawk. We already told you in the last newsletter that this year a great blessing of water fell on us at exactly the right moment. This meant that the vines were not stressed by the drought, but were able to redirect their energy in a relaxed manner - from general growth to berry production. The white grapes are now becoming more transparent, the red ones darker... and both are becoming plumper. For us, this is like pure magic every year.
But what exactly is happening there?
Roughly speaking: while the sugar content in the grape is being built up, the acid is being broken down at the same time. The right time to harvest is when the perfect balance between higher sugar content and lower acidity has been achieved. The berries have then reached what is known as " physiological grape ripeness ." Incidentally, this is also the time when animals (eg deer) like to eat them the most.
Roughly speaking: while the sugar content in the grape is being built up, the acid is being broken down at the same time. The right time to harvest is when the perfect balance between higher sugar content and lower acidity has been achieved. The berries have then reached what is known as " physiological grape ripeness ." Incidentally, this is also the time when animals (eg deer) like to eat them the most.
Winemakers are also wine chemists. We have our own small wine laboratory on our winery and in a few days we will begin analyzing the first grapes for these two values (sugar & acid), among others. The pH value also plays a significant role for us. During the analysis we also take a look inside the grapes: if the seeds are green, the grape is still unripe. When they turn brown, the harvest can begin.
Ripeness is therefore measurable , and there are also clearly defined criteria for when a grape is early ripe, fully ripe or overripe. So you just stomp into the vineyard with a test tube and a table and off you go?
Not quite. The sensory test takes place at the same time. It sounds great, but it means nothing other than: try, try, try... Because you have to taste the aroma on your tongue, and that is something that can only be learned through experience. While in our parents' time it was mainly the sugar that was tested to define alcoholic maturity, today it is much more about aromatic maturity. This is, in a sense, the inner quality of the wine, which is defined by the taste, the condition of the pulp and the development of the seeds. In red wine, phenols also play a role (but more on that another time).
Photo: Wine analysis in the Gräfschen wine laboratory
And there is another thing that you have to feel in your little finger : not all wines are harvested when the grape is officially “ adult ”, that is, when it has reached its physiological maturity:
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Our Schoppen wines are the youngsters of the vineyard. They set off like energetic twenty-year-olds, fresh, light, free and carefree.
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Our gourmet wines are more thoughtful, more mature. They have remained on the vine longer, have developed, and approach the world with more leisure.
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The premium wines are regal, mature, elegant and expressive. They are carefully selected and they know it. They take plenty of time to mature for granted.
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And the Beerenauslese (BA) ... oh yes, the Beerenauslese. It is the crowning glory of old age, corresponding to eighty-year-olds with strong character who can no longer be fooled. With the calm that only comes from experience, they have developed and now offer the full bouquet.
Photo: This is what the grapes for a Beerenauslese look like: overripe, raisin-like, dried out, noble-rot grapes.
So you see – the right time to harvest is a combination of science, years of experience and a bit of luck. Because as we said… being in the right place at the right time … that is not given to everyone.
Preparations for the 2023 vintage have already begun. The cellar has been cleaned and the wine press (Palatinate dialect for wine press) will be polished to a high gloss in the next few days by Dominik, our newly qualified winemaker. If the weather (the eternal topic ;-)) plays along, we expect the 2023 harvest to start at the beginning of September. If you have the time and inclination to help us with the hand-picking in the vineyard for a few days, please get in touch with us.
Anyone who wants to enjoy our B eerenauslese should try the 2019 Rieslaner BA. This is an "age" that inspires. Incidentally, our Rieslaner BA is limited to 390 bottles because we can only harvest it very rarely and in particularly good years.
Your counts, who are impatiently awaiting the harvest
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