There's so much to tell about our "Drama Queen" Riesling (
see Riesling Part 1 ) that we'll have to split it into two pages. Today we're talking about the history and aging, or rather, maturation. Let me say it right up front: For once, youth does NOT have the edge here! :-)
Since when has Riesling actually existed?
The name Riesling was first mentioned in a document on March 13, 1435, and it was... a bill! Klaus Klein Fisch (nice name) billed Count Johann IV of Katzenelnbogen (even nicer!) for various Riesling vines that were planned for his newly built castle in Rüsselsheim am Main. So you can mark March 13 in your calendars as #rieslingbirthday !
Riesling grapes are comparatively small, and their frost resistance and long ripening period also indicate a relationship with wild grapes . This robustness and adaptability to the northern (continental) climate, along with its taste, were certainly the decisive reasons why the rulers of the 17th and 18th centuries recommended Riesling at the highest level. These included, among others, the Electors of the Palatinate (wise men).
And so began Riesling's triumphant campaign . At the beginning of the 20th century, Riesling was so popular that it even outranked French red wine internationally, but with the outbreak of the World Wars, sales plummeted. Its good reputation has only been rebuilt in recent decades. Today, Riesling is not only the most popular white wine variety in Germany, but has also regained its place in the international rankings of top wines.
Where does the name Riesling actually come from?
This remains a mystery, but there are plenty of theories: Some say it has something to do with rusling (dark wood), others suspect "racy acidity" or "trickling" as the basis. In Baden, Riesling is also known as "Klingelberger," and there's also a "false friend," Welschriesling . This comes from Austria, Italy, or Slovenia and has nothing in common with our Riesling. If you'd like to read up on it from a scientific perspective, you can find an article on Riesling etymology by name researcher Prof. Dr. Jürgen Udolph here .
And how old should a Riesling be?
The answer to this question is simple (and for once, all wine critics agree): Old. As old as possible. In fact, the aging potential of top Rieslings is virtually unlimited. This is due to the fruity acidity, which develops over time and enhances the
terroir , i.e., the character of the wine. It's not for nothing that the most expensive wines in the world are aged German Rieslings.
For this reason, our new premium Riesling vintages are only released for sale from October of the following year . This allows them to rest on the lees longer and have time to develop their full flavors even after bottling.
Since we (the "young counts" Peter & Jürgen) joined the winery, we've created a very special corner of our estate: our treasure chamber. Here, we've set aside a few bottles from each Riesling vintage to take advantage of these effects and to be able to taste our wines over time. After just a short time, we realized that our premium wines have a great deal of potential for aging—and besides, it's incredibly exciting to literally taste the different weather conditions each year. Here's a brief overview of the past few years:
2021
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Spring: budding of the vines at the end of March, clean vine blossom at the beginning of June with optimal weather.
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Summer: more moderate temperatures (annual average day: 15.49°C), cooler nights ( ø 9.14°C), relatively high rainfall (approx. 871 litres of rain per year).
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Autumn: sunny, cool nights, no rain.
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CONCLUSION: fresh, strong acidity, sparkling and fine in taste.
2020
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Spring: The vines sprout at the end of February, some vine blossoms ( which means that the flowers are not completely pollinated ) in mid-May.
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Summer: more Mediterranean climate, hotter days ( ø 17.06°C) & warmer nights ( ø 10.51°C) in summer, less precipitation (approx. 678 litres of rain per year).
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Autumn: summer temperatures, sunny, warm nights, no rain.
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CONCLUSION: less acidity than 2021 (2021 average 8.2 g/l; 2020 average 7.7 g/l), but slightly more sugar and therefore somewhat stronger.
2019
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Spring: budding of the vines at the beginning of March, slightly shriveled vine blossom (= fewer grapes per vine ) at the end of May.
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Summer: more Mediterranean climate, hotter days ( ø 16.97°C) but cool nights ( ø 10.21°C), less precipitation (approx. 702 litres of rain per year).
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Autumn: summer temperatures, sunny with occasional rain, cool nights.
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CONCLUSION: Acidity similar to 2020 (average 7.8 g/l), slightly more sugar and therefore also stronger, pronounced fruit aromas.
Ich habe 25 Jahre in Spanien gelebt und bei all den wunderbaren “Tinto” den deutschen Riesling vermißt. In der Region Galicien gibt es eine gute Alternative – den Albarinho -. Angeblich soll das soviel wie der Weiße vom Rhein heißen!
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